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Visayas Liveaboard Diving Adventure Trip Report
A Journey Through the Heart of the Philippines
It was my immense good fortune to join the Philippines Aggressor for a 10 day 'Best of the Visayas' cruise in December. As the trip came to an end, we were able to reflect on some of the highlights. We had multiple thrilling, up-close encounters with thresher sharks, were mesmerised when surrounded by thousands of sardines, saw several whale sharks, and ticked off many bucket-list critters: blue-ringed octopus, skeleton shrimps, giant frogfish, sea moths and more…
I had dived most of the spots on the itinerary before, some 20 years ago, and know first-hand how difficult it can be to get from A to B to C efficiently in the Philippines. This cruise cut out so much travelling and stress. It seemed like an amazing way to experience some of the country’s richest and best-known diving destinations and all with supreme convenience and comfort.
Diving the Visayas
The Visayas region makes for a very interesting liveaboard itinerary. Our route was essentially a circumnavigation of the top diving sports around the island of Cebu, visiting Malapascua, Moalboal, Alona Beach, Siquijor and Oslob. So many places of note in a short 10 day period! Although the headline creatures steal the show, and we dived some very colourful and healthy reefs, the area is also home to some exceptional macro diving. Our first 2 diving days demonstrated that with plenty of thresher shark activity, as well as lots of awesome critter spotting around Gato Island.
My experience of threshers 20 years ago was diving at Monad Shoal (not Kimud Shoal) which was far deeper and less exciting. In fact over 3 days back then I saw 0 Thresher sharks; ok, maybe one very brief and distant sighting. This time, no sooner had we descended to Kimud Shoal, than we encountered 2 different sharks enjoying the attention of some cleaner fish. There were a few too many other divers already there so we finned several minutes to another area of the shoal where there were multiple other sharks to enjoy more privately. Notably these sharks appear oblivious to divers and therefore swim very close before turning away, presumably due to bubbles, and to stay within the cleaner fish's range. Everyone in our group loved these dives and photographers will be especially pleased with up-close thresher sharks in shallow, well-lit water.
Experiencing the whale sharks of Oslob was a bit of a mixed bag. It was great to see these magnificent fish up close, sometimes 3 or 4 in one's field of vision. However, that joy was tempered by the sadness of knowing they are only there to be fed. Indeed, their migratory patterns have been interrupted since they now stay where they have a reliable food source. The experience is also essentially diving under pangas with loads of snorkellers clinging to them and kicking furiously as the whale sharks swoop by. I understand that Aggressor, together with many other dive operators, have officially opposed this activity and made their concerns known to the authorities. Given the sad absence of reef sharks and rays in this region of the Philippines these days, one can understand why Oslob is on the itinerary and I appreciate how feeding, while an interference, is undoubtedly preferable to slaughter.
Getting lost in a swirling mass of thousands (maybe millions!) of sardines in Moalboal was one that was met with universal acclaim; a very memorable experience and one that would bring a smile to even the most world-weary diver. They seem be everywhere: high on the reef top, cascading down the wall deeper than your fins, turning and swimming diagonally past you, glinting in the sunlight – all at the same time. It really is a privilege to be underwater, lost in a dizzying mass of sardines. Of course such a biomass of life attracts the predatory interest of schools of jacks, barracuda and mackerel, swimming around and occasionally darting in for an easy snack - amazing to observe.
Personally, the macro diving was just as good as any of these highlights. Coming across a pair of blue-ringed octopus on our first night dive was a great thrill for me. This creature had become something of an oddity for me. Having dived in many places where they might be seen, they had always eluded me. The cruise director compiled a bucket list of creatures from the guests' suggestions on day 1 and this was mine. I didn't expect it to be ticked off. However, early on the first night dive with my nose inches from the sand looking at something else, a tiny octopus entered stage left and I could make out its tell-tale rings, much to my delight! There were many other critters that revealed themselves at night or in the day: innumerable pipefish (they are everywhere), a variety of octopus species, plus cuttlefish and squid, decorator crabs galore, nudibranchs (and pleurobranchs) aplenty. The reefs were awash with basslets, damselfish, rockmover wrasse, butterflyfish, hawkfish, angelfish, midnight snapper, the list goes on. With such richness there is a lot of behaviour on show: predators attacking the sardine shoal, cornetfish hunting tiny prey, cleaning wrasse at work constantly above the sandy floor, home to a gazillion shrimp-goby partnerships, fields of garden eels and lurking jawfish.
The Boat Features
My first impression upon boarding the boat was how spacious it is. The boat's width and intelligent layout means there are lots of different spaces to hang out. This is great for being social and also great for being anti-social! You can always find a place to have a chat or take some time to yourself. Our boat may have been not very full with only 14 guests, but chill out places are many: main deck dining area, upper deck indoor lounge, upper deck outdoor lounge, sun deck shaded area, bar, and hot tub.
On the first evening we steamed from Mactan up to Malapascua meaning we were on the move from just after dinner to early morning. The Philippines Aggressor (much like its sister ship the Philippines Aggressor II) is a large and very stable boat, so the rocking motion is kept to a minimum which is great for sleeping. Cabins are spread across the lower, main and upper deck and offer quite differing experiences. More on that in the cabins section below.
The width of the boat also means that all the communal spaces are very generous and roomy and that the dive platform at the stern is enormous, allowing for orderly boarding of the dive tenders.
The Dining Experience
Meals are enjoyed in the large main deck dining area. You can enjoy a pre-dive coffee and toast before dive 1 and then a hot breakfast served buffet-style with eggs cooked to order. Lunch is also buffet-style, while dinner is served at the table. There is no shortage of food with many meals featuring soup, salad and dessert, as well as the main course options.
The menu is a mix of international and Filipino dishes. I wouldn't say the Philippines is known for its fine dining or sophisticated cuisine, so it is reasonable to expect that to be reflected in the menu. Local options like chicken or pork adobo (the national dish) are prepared with oil and salty soy sauce in the local way and may or may not be to your taste. Dietary requirements can be catered for. There are fish alternatives for those who avoid red meat, and tofu or veggie-based alternatives for vegetarians. The kitchen staff are keen to keep everyone happy and welcome your suggestions.
Local beer is complimentary (usually San Miguel Pilsen, San Miguel Light or Red Horse). Red or white wine also flow freely, normally from Australian vineyards.
The Cabins
Cabins are spread across 3 decks and each deck offers something different so understanding the distinctions in cabin choice is important. My cabin was on the lower deck, cabin 5, a very spacious bedroom with 1 double bed and 1 single bed side-by-side. 2 portholes provided light but no real view. There was a wardrobe and ensuite bathroom. I was very happy and slept well the first couple of nights, but soon sleep became more of a struggle with the noise, and especially the vibrations from the engine room. I still slept pretty well but only after perfecting a strategy involving sleeping on my side with ear-plugs and a hand below my head. I understand that there are plans to improve the sound-proofing in the engine room.
Cabins on the main and upper deck experience less significant engine noise and vibration so I would recommend sensitive sleepers to opt for the higher deck cabins. Those that did only had to contend with the sound of the anchor chain which is audible to all when being dropped or raised, but relatively short-lived.
Main deck and upper deck cabins typically have 2 single beds (or 2 joined to form a double bed). Main deck cabins have a large picture window with great views, and a desk and chair. Upper deck cabins do not have a desk and chair, but have the rare feature of a private balcony. No one walks past or can see you without making the effort! So you can fling open the balcony doors and greet the day as nature intended. You can also dry all your personal belongings here - your rash guards, shorts etc, without the need to haggle for hanging space on the dive deck.
The Diving Procedure
All diving is arranged from 2 inflatable tenders which are boarded from the dive platform. You are told only to remember your mask and computer (and weight belt, if using); the crew will do the rest. After filling tanks 'in situ' on the dive deck they transfer your gear into the boat before helping you step on. It's a very simple procedure and excellent dive service.
Either you or your guide will analyse your tank before the dive, with each result requiring your signature. Other guests remarked on how consistent the nitrox blends were. The fills were also generous: normally 220 bar minimum and most of our group's dives were in the 60-75 minute range, even the night dives.
The dive deck itself could get quite busy with a full complement of divers gearing up, so dive times are staggered to allow 2 boats to take the first 2 groups before the remaining divers begin gearing up.
There are 3 fresh warm showers on the dive platform as well as 2 camera rinse tanks. The dive deck features 2 toilets for post-dive relief. The crew also expressly acknowledges the reality of in-suit evacuation and so they rinse all exposure suits after every dive before hanging them up for you. This is all handled with typical Filipino warmth and good humour.
Torches were available for rent. I was given a 'macro stick' to use at no cost and our guide was very attentive to all our equipment needs, always on hand with a solution or a little replacement part if necessary. One of the strengths of the Aggressor fleet is that the crew always seem to do all they can to make your diving procedure as easy and stress-free as possible.
Dive Conditions
Diving conditions were generally pleasant. Surprisingly, there was always a bit of chop to the water as we boarded the tenders and then rode the waves to the drop point. Few very sites, maybe only in the harbour area on the final dive day, enjoyed flat calm conditions.
Visibility was as varied as the dive sites. Where it was most limited was on macro sites where it is less of an issue since you are looking at things close-up rather than taking in sweeping views. Healthy reefs like those around the islands of Pescador and Siquijor enjoyed better (but not stellar) visibility, perhaps up to 20m. Some of the guests commented on the visibility being generally lower than they expected. Indeed, there were times where I found myself moving out into the blue from a wall hoping to spot some pelagic activity but realizing that the limited visibility made that unlikely.
Water temperatures were quite consistent at around 28-29C. There were a few stinging incidents worthy of note, especially on dive day 1 at Kimud Shoal. Lips, hands and bare lower legs all came in for some stings from unseen assailants that probably go in the 'jelly bug’ category. There were also times when little jellyfish were present in the shallows, so care had to be taken when waiting to exit the water or taking gear off before climbing the tender ladder.
Getting There
On arrival at the airport, I used the Grab app (Asian Uber) to get a car. The journey was uber-short and cheap since it turned out the Mactan Waterfront Airport Hotel is right next to the airport – the view from my room was the airport.
Having arrived late at night, I bedded down at 2 am knowing I need not rush in the morning since pick up was between 4 and 5 pm. So I slept in as much as I could and made my way down to check out at 12 before having lunch in the hotel and killing time in the lobby before pick up. The minibus transfer to Cebu Yacht Club took only 10 minutes or so.
How Aggressor Adventures has changed
Decades ago there used to be quite a formal atmosphere on board the Aggressor liveaboards. They were often 1 or 2 Western staff in positions of authority such as cruise director. The crew would wear whites in the evening and dinner would be quite an austere, plated event. It seems to me, and other guests agree, that this formality has softened over the years, giving way to a more informal, relaxed atmosphere.
On this boat the entire crew was Filipino. The cruise director was an energetic local guy who was professional but with a laid-back attitude and whose colourful language was a source of entertainment and endearment. Aggressor used to have a reputation among some in diving for watering down the local experience. On this boat from the friendly crew, to the food, to the crew’s background stories and information, the guests received plenty of Filipino hospitality.
Thankfully the Aggressor levels of quality service and efficient diving procedures remain and are as impressive and welcome as ever. Some 20 years earlier I had dived these Visayas spots as individual destinations, moving from one to the other via a series of cars, jeepneys and ferries. To experience them all in a single trip without any of the hassle of independent travel was amazing. As a solo traveller I had to work so hard to make my own way around these amazing individual places. On this liveaboard it was all served on a silver salver. What a great itinerary!
Conclusion
I thoroughly enjoyed this cruise. The diving was very good and I had some memorable encounters and noteworthy underwater moments. It was especially pleasant to me to revisit many of these sites with the minimum of effort required. I was especially looking forward to experiencing the macro sites of Dauin but unfortunately we didn't make it there on this trip. Due to a combination of weather concerns and a large group "not being into muck", these sites were struck from the itinerary, which was a shame. We dived some very good reefs after that point, especially around Siquijor but personally I would have preferred exceptional macro to very good reefs.
Speaking of Siquijor, it has a reputation for witchcraft and voodoo. Talking with the other guests we agreed that this may have made an interesting land visit. As it happened, we went ashore only once, to Alona Beach, which is more of a beach town with a young backpacker vibe. Something a little more cultural, even at the expense of a dive, might have enriched the cruise experience. I know many of the other guests had no time either side of the liveaboard to get a feel for the Philippines.
All things considered I really appreciated this itinerary and the level of service received from the friendly and hard-working Philippines Aggressor liveaboard crew. There were some beautiful dives, memorable encounters and great bio-diversity on show. All were experienced with great comfort and ease in a country where that is often difficult to find. In such a destination, the solidity of the Aggressor brand is all the more significant.
Written by Gavin Macaulay, January 2025
